I Still Suck At Surfing

My leg didn’t feel as badly as I thought it would the next day (still can’t walk down stairs correctly), but I thought some swimming and the ocean water might add to my recovery. So I decided to go surfing. Now, I still severely suck at surfing, but I don’t suck as badly as S.  So I brought him along to teach him and in the process, make myself feel better about my own sucking.

We were going to go to Dana Point but it was getting late so we opted for San Clemente which is right over the Ortegas, about an hour from my place.  We got there and it was, of course, glassy. The afternoons aren’t the best but I was hoping the storm off the coast would produce some mediocre sets. They were okay actually later on. I have a 9 ft’ longboard so I can catch anything. But not today. I simply could not paddle hard enough to get out in front. I caught one, for a few seconds and then it broke.  That’s when I realized just how tired I was from the day before.

Most of the day was spent watching S surf from out beyond the breakers. It was peaceful out there and my wet suit, boots, and gloves rock–I was warm, S was super cold, however, and had to go in.  The good thing, I have S hooked now, so I can go surfing more. Since moving out here from Malibu, I haven’t been able to find one person who actively surfs. I am sure there are a lot of people I can surf with in Carlsbad but it is a longer drive.  I forgot how much I missed it…



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