If you ever need to run parallel Shorais for more capacity (these are two Shorai 6V for a ’48 Panhead). I had to help a customer out today to help him achieve more capacity to lengthen his time in between charges. I thought I’d share.
This is the best way to do it. I truly recommend using a balance charger (like the BMS01) however, to balance them occasionally. Balance chargers will charge each cell individually to 3.6V each (the Shorai batteries are multiple cell, prismatic to be exact) but they are wired 2S for the 6V and 4S for the 12V). When you charge via the terminals and either your charging system is out of whack, or your battery voltage maintenance (guilty here!) is pretty poor, sometimes your cells can get out of balance.)
I do NOT recommend using the parallel method to improve performance or run lights at idle on vintage bikes due to low output at low rpms regardless of 12V or 6V. You really should update your generator if you are having issues maintaining good idle voltage output. If you use parallel configurations as a Band-Aid for your output, the battery will fail prematurely. Dropping super low in V and then hammering it with high output at higher rpms is not good for any battery.
WARNING: Parallel is positive to positive, negative to negative. If you do the opposite you will short your battery and fireworks will ensue, plus you will probably weld the connecting bars together. One word of advice, DON’T.
These set ups require a dual polarity set up (one battery must be opposite polarity from the other ).
Front to Front Configuration
This set up will fit battery boxes/wells that are:
- 3.5″ in height (plus a little extra room for terminal cables and important things like protective positive boots!!)
- 4.56″ in width (plus a little room for the adhesive foam as the connectors do not make the battery fit absolutely flush front to front)
- 4.45″ in length
Top to Top Configuration
This is more similar to the 6V batteries that you often see for some HD vintage 6V, the CH-2 (or H2) that is H= 8.5″ x Length= 4 5/8″ x W=4″). This set up will fit battery boxes/wells that are:
- 7.5″ in height. (This will also require adhesive foam between the two batteries as the connectors do not allow the battery to fit absolutely flush top to top).
- 2.28″ in width (width being front to back; but you will require a bit of adhesive foam to keep the two backs of the battery in line with one another. If you don’t, the connectors may bend, see pic 2 and 3. Better to have it and not need than…you get the picture.)
- 4.45″ in length (length being + terminal to – terminal, basically)
I hope this helps!
And finally at home…
My R6 wasn’t keeping my battery charged (I know, right?) and Mosberg changed out the reg/rec before he gave it to me, my changing batteries, Shawn checking the resistance of the stator, etc. It turns out that there was simply oil gunked up on the coils (looked a little baked on) and so now she has a new stator and it runs like a beast! My output is about 14.1 at idle. My battery stays charged, it runs perfectly.
I am so excited! When it warms up, off for my first ride! There was ice on my truck this morning and had to be scraped off the windows. I am going nowhere on two wheels any time soon unless it is dirt, and mid day, and I am wearing a thick underlayer.
Thanks be to Shawn for ordering the stator and figuring it all out. He rode it home from Shorai (it was dark and cold and I played the girl card) and he said it was super agile (and too small for him). He said I was going to love it. It is really light. The last R6 I was on was pretty awesome so I know this one will be even better.
Thank you again, Mosberg!!! You is the man.
But I think my WR is getting jealous : (
Firstly I think it is kind of unfortunate that I am able to purchase motorcycle parts from eBay or Amazon at the press of a button and not have to go through a ton of steps so I can think it over first. Do I really need this? Can I find it cheaper elsewhere? Should I go OEM? I just think it should be at least a little more difficult so I can’t easily spend my the majority of my earnings on parts. This month I bought parts and couldn’t pay my cell phone bill for the last two days of the cycle. Well, I don’t need a phone as badly as most. Thankfully, Shawn bought a lot of parts this month.
Secondly, we have been working on this motorcycle for eons, and I know Mike Franklin wants me to finally place it in my name (sorry, Mike, I will very soon!).
Long story short, my parts list is long. But I am slowly ticking away at it.
I received a package today care of my good friend, Em Alicia (MissBusa) and to my surprise it was the Pink MagOGrip Wristband that I really wanted! The MagOGrip actually has some pretty great sticking power and it’s cute, too! For those of you who like pink, or if you know a lady rider / mechanic who loves pink, this makes a great gift 😉
Many thanks to you, Em 🙂 You are awesome!
I love this photo! 🙂
MotoRace Reports highlights another fellow female trackday junkie this week… my good friend and favorite BMW racer, Em Alicia! Check it out! 🙂
I worked for FastrackRiders on Saturday which was great, very busy and fun. There was a huge KTM Press-only demo event so that was pretty cool to see all of the new KTM RC8 1190 bikes, the Duke, etc. The riders had an awesome time, the turn-out was excellent and the weather was perfect. But let’s get to the real reason of this post…Sunday I got to ride!
Look! No mullet set-up anymore 🙂
Okay, I will admit it, I have NEVER cleaned my front brake pistons. Ever. And it shows. I figured that out Saturday after the solo race when I saw that my pads were getting low. Then Shawn pointed out that my pistons were disgusting. I would need new front brake pads before the next race so I would do both before the next trackday to get them set in and tested. I am learning as I go…
What You Will Need: (This is for cleaning the pistons while on the bike, if you want to go the distance and remove the whole assembly, pistons, springs and all, go for it. Doing it this way is a heckuva lot easier and without messing with any brake lines.)
- tools you need to remove your caliper bolts and pins
- small bucket or container of warm water (I used a 1 qt Pyrex measuring cup set inside of a clean oil catch pan)
- regular liquid dish soap (just enough to mix in the warm water and make it sudsy. I don’t use brake cleaner on my pistons or caliper assembly because of the seals)
- firm toothbrush
- clean shop rag or paper towels (I used papertowels)
- blue threadlocker
- New brake pads if you are changing pads (Laughably the OEM pads were $38.95 per pair, vs. $44 for Galfer Sintered HH per pair)
- Scotch-brite pad (green or red), if you want to clean rotor
- brake cleaner, if you want to clean rotor
- safety wire and safety wire pliers (for race prep)
- RTV silicone (for race prep)